Cannaregio District Sestiere

Cannaregio, between palaces, ghetto and everyday Venice

Cannaregio occupies the entire north-west part of Venice, from Santa Lucia station to the quieter districts facing the lagoon. Crossed by long, almost straight canals, it offers two very different faces: the lively axis of Lista di Spagna and Strada Nova, used every day by crowds of visitors, and a network of quays and alleyways where a more ordinary Venetian life remains.

The origin of its name remains debated. It could derive from Canal Regio, an old channel allowing access to the city from the mainland, or from canneto, in reference to the reeds that once grew in this marshy area.

Site of the historic ghetto, Cannaregio was also the district of Tintoretto. The painter lived near Campo dei Mori and was buried in the church of the Madonna dell'Orto, where several of his monumental works are found. Between Gothic churches, refined palaces, former charitable institutions and modest houses lined up along the canals, the sestiere sums up the contrasts of Venice quite well, without needing to stage them.

The district therefore deserves more than a mere passage between the station and Rialto. By leaving Strada Nova to follow the canals towards the Ghetto, Sant'Alvise or the Madonna dell'Orto, you discover a district that is larger, more contrasting and often more peaceful than its very busy entrance suggests.

Places to discover in Cannaregio

1. The Venice Ghetto: made up of the Ghetto Nuovo, the Ghetto Vecchio and the Ghetto Novissimo, it retains several old synagogues discreetly fitted out in the upper floors of the buildings. Its tall houses bear witness to the lack of space imposed on a population long confined to a restricted perimeter.
2. The Ca' d'Oro: built in the 15th century, it is one of the masterpieces of Venetian Gothic. Its facade was once enhanced with gold and colours; it now houses the Galleria Giorgio Franchetti and its collection of paintings, sculptures and art objects.
3. The Madonna dell'Orto: this large Gothic brick church owes its name to a statue of the Virgin found, according to tradition, in a nearby garden. It houses in particular the Last Judgement, the Adoration of the Golden Calf and the tomb of Tintoretto.
4. Santa Maria dei Miracoli: entirely covered with polychrome marbles, this small Renaissance church was built at the end of the 15th century to house an image of the Virgin considered miraculous. Its harmonious proportions make it one of the most singular buildings in Venice.
5. Santa Maria Assunta of the Jesuits: rebuilt in the 18th century by the Jesuits, this large Baroque church surprises with its spectacular white and green marble decoration imitating fabrics. It notably retains the Martyrdom of Saint Lawrence by Titian and several works by Tintoretto.
6. Santa Maria di Nazareth degli Scalzi: located on the Grand Canal in the immediate vicinity of the station, this church of the Discalced Carmelites has an imposing marble facade and a particularly rich Baroque interior. Its decor includes works by several great artists of the 17th and 18th centuries.
7. The Ca' Vendramin Calergi: this Renaissance palace overlooking the Grand Canal now houses the Venice casino. Richard Wagner spent the last months of his life there and died there in February 1883.
8. The Palazzo Labia and San Geremia: near the Cannaregio canal, the palace is famous for the room decorated by Tiepolo on the theme of Antony and Cleopatra. The neighbouring church of San Geremia preserves the relics traditionally attributed to Saint Lucy.
9. The Scuola Grande della Misericordia: begun in the 16th century to a design by Jacopo Sansovino, this immense former confraternity is among the largest civil buildings in Venice. Its large upper hall and monumental dimensions bear witness to the power of the Venetian scuole.
10. The Campo dei Mori: three oriental statues set into the facades traditionally represent the Mastelli brothers, merchants from the Peloponnese. Nearby is the house attributed to Tintoretto, recognisable by its facade adorned with a small relief.
11. The Fondamente degli Ormesini and della Misericordia: lined with houses, workshops, bàcari and small terraces, they are among the most pleasant walks in the district. Very lively in the evening, they retain a more local atmosphere during the day.